Specialist: �An information from the climbers on the route must be received during a day three times�

The president of the Federation of Mountaineers of Azerbaijan in 1991-2000, and now the chairman of the Republican Alpinist Tourist Club of Trade Unions, Saridan Mursagulov, answers the questions of Radio Azadlig.

- Saridan, you are aware of the reports in social networks and the media about the disappearance of three climbers on December 23rd. What could you say about the reasons for this?

- The reasons can be different. First, weather conditions, secondly - snow avalanches, and thirdly - experience. And finally, the availability or lack of training. It is a struggle with nature, because it can always demonstrate its own character.

- What is required and implied by experience?

- If the talk is about winter ascent, then you need a mountaineering degree. Secondly, it is necessary to clarify the question of whether they have a practice of winter ascent. Third, did the winter equipment that they took meet the requirements?

- Was such a permission given in Soviet times to winter climb?

- Yes, such permission was given. Until recent years, winter ascents have taken place. We organized annual winter ascents to Shahdag, no one could forbid it. The main requirement of winter climbing is preparation. For the ascent to seven- and eight-thousanders, such as the Pamir and Tien Shan, preliminary winter ascents to Shahdag were held annually.

I myself fell into the crevices, the last time it was in 2001 on the Bazarduzi mountain range. Seven of us fell into the crevice. You need to know what to do in such cases. You cannot move, otherwise you can stay under the snow. If we did not have experience, then we would remain under an avalanche. Under the avalanche, I fell on Elbrus. At that time, if someone was going on a winter ascent, then only with the experience. It was important to have at least a mountaineering class. Otherwise, without it, we did not ascent the mountains. There is no difference, Tufandag or Tien Shan. You should respect the mountains and know how to talk to them. In this sense, there is no reason to ask the question of the height of the mountains. Such cases also occur on low mountains - four-thousanders, for example, since the danger of snow avalanches exists everywhere.

- Usually, with such ascents, instructors and rescuers should insure climbers. However, the latter case showed the absence of such requirements. What do you think about it?

- Firstly, I would not want to interfere in the affairs of the club and the federation. However, you are right. It is very important that there are teams of instructors and rescuers. Secondly, there is a rule in mountaineering. When climbers are let out on a route, climbers should communicate with the issuer three times a day and inform them. In the morning at 8-9 o'clock, at 12 and 16 o'clock. If there is no connection, the rescue team must immediately begin to fulfill the duties. This is a rule of mountaineering. According to the information available to me, the missing alpinists contacted only once. I do not know if they have any experience. When they were released on the route, it was necessary to check the readiness of alpinists. Summer and winter climbing are absolutely different things, because in winter there is a danger of avalanches. Staying under the avalanche for more than 8 hours is difficult. Once again I recall the vagaries of nature, because at the beginning of the ascent the weather can be good. In an hour, everything can change dramatically, a snow avalanche may form. Before the discovery of mountain climbers, it is too early to talk about their deaths. I read in the press about attracting great search power. True, now the weather conditions are bad there, visibility too. In any case, from the first day of the search it was necessary to attract experienced professionals.

- How do you assess the delay in the search for missing alpinists for three days?

- Measures should be taken after the climbers did not get in touch at the due time. It is necessary to find out about the presence or absence of climber"s preparation for the winter ascent and the alpinist category. It is necessary to create a commission to clarify this and bring objective information to the public. The commission should include experienced and authorized alpinists who have passed a large school. During the Soviet times, a group of rescuers included those who had passed such a school, they were given the tokens of rescuers. There are a lot of questions in this story, but young climbers should not be blamed. Instead, we need to create a group of experienced specialists to conduct a serious investigation. The public should be informed only after receiving the results. We must also take into account the families of climbers.

- Do you need a plan for any climbing ...

- Yes, it is necessary. On the basis of the plan, the commission must find out whether or not the ascent has taken place. Then answers should be given to questions. I am against underestimating the work of helicopter pilots who went on a search for climbers. After the investigation it is necessary to identify the perpetrators. Firstly, why did the young people come to the ascent, who allowed them. Did they have experience and preparation. All this needs clarification.